
Jeko
Enthusiast

Sep 8, 2005, 11:28 AM
Post #4 of 22
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Re: [Storm Crow] Choosing a flash for a 20D....
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I usually set ISO at 400 for indoor or darker locations, though I'll use ISO 200 often when flash is more for filler in a bright environment (best to shoot and evaluate the histogram). There is no flash that will tell you the ISO that I've seen (I have canon 420, 550 and 580's). Admittedly, I am not an authority on light metering. I actually hate to slow down shoots to keep rechecking, and I seldom sit in one location/pose for very many shots. Light meters do optimize ISO for a pinpoint location, and if retested for each configuration.... but, will you really recheck for each group/pose?? Your not in a studio, so probably not if you are under any time constraint. Basically, if I can't see difference on histogram, does it really matter? Note that I do use several remote flashes if I am in DARK churches with large groups, but these are still ETTL-II controlled. The flash and camera will communicate and optimize with ETTL-II. Play/practice with it. This is a great excuse to lug the thing every where to test flashes on family, pets and friends (restaurants, events, etc). Digital lets you learn immediately, if you use the histogram to inerpret too. Lastly, here is a very good reference: http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/ Once you get your flash, I suggest that you quickly also learn how your camera meters the light (you can control the area selected- optimize for group shoots or for silhouettes and such) and how to manually vary the flash's intensity (for things like balancing couple in foreground with a colorful sunset). Now, you too can be both a vidiot and a loose Canon. Jeko Sony VX2100's, iRivers, M-audio 24/96, Canon 5Ds/20Ds (and too much glass), Vegas6, PhotoShop CS3, Lightroom, etc.
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